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First year of your dog’s life

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Recommended Protocol for the First Year of Your Dog’s Life

VACCINATION Even though the calendar varies during the year, it is very important to follow a schedule for your puppies first vaccines. Here is a plan to help you schedule the vaccines:Your puppy should receive 3 doses of vaccine in its first year:

  • Between 6 and 8 weeks of age: First (Base) vaccine (Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvovirus, Parainfluenza)
  • One month later (12 weeks): First booster, and first leptospirosis vaccine.
  • One month later (16 weeks): Second booster, leptospirosis booster, rabies, and if needed the Bordetella (kennel cough) vaccine. For puppies or dogs taking obedience classes or going into boarding.

One year later, the base vaccine is given along with rabies, leptospirosis and bordetella. After this the base and rabies vaccine are repeated only every 3 years. The leptospirosis and bordetella vaccine are repeated yearly with their annual check-up.

DEWORMING During the first exam, your veterinarian will prescribe a deworming treatment that will cover the majority of intestinal parasites. You will have to repeat the treatment in two weeks time. Afterwards it is strongly recommended to deworm your puppy once a month up until the age of 6 months, and then 1 to 4 times a year depending on your pet’s lifestyle and the recommendation of your veterinarian.

STERILISATION Sterilisation can be done starting from the age of 5 months. We are now fortunate to be able to offer the latest in technology, laser surgery. Because the laser causes less cell damage, animals feel less pain during recovery, little swelling and little to no bleeding. This will help your animal to recover more quickly from surgery. Included in all sterilisations of female dogs, because the surgery is longer, are intravenous fluids. This helps to eliminate the anaesthetics used during the operation from their system more rapidly. Females will also receive an analgesic during and for at least 4 days preceding the surgery. We also offer a pre-anaesthetic blood test, done the morning of the surgery. This helps to verify that the internal organs (liver, kidneys…) are healthy and able to withstand the anaesthetic. *Your animal needs to up to date with it’s vaccines before being hospitalised.

FLEA AND HEARTWORM PREVENTION The recommended testing time is from the beginning of April until the end of May. Testing may be done at other times of the year but may not be as effective. We recommend that your dog be tested every 2 years; this is to assure that the treatment is well absorbed and that it is working for your dog. The heartworm test also tests for the presence of Lyme disease. This is a disease being seen more often in our area. It is often transmitted by the bite of an infected tick. After the test, the veterinarian will prescribe a treatment for your dog. There are different types of medication, from pills to pour-on, all are administered once a month. You may discuss which would more suit you and your animal. These treatments are started at the beginning of June and they continue until the beginning of November.

First year of your cat’s life

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Recommended protocol for the first year of your cat’s life

VACCINATION Even though the calendar varies during the year, it is very important to follow a schedule for your kitten’s first vaccines. Here is a plan to help schedule the vaccines: Your kitten should receive 3 doses of vaccine in it’s first year:

  • Between 6 and 8 weeks: First (base) vaccine (Panleukopenia, Rhinotracheitis, Calcivirus)
  • One month later (12 weeks): First booster If your cat goes outside we also recommend the feline leukemia vaccine One month later (16 weeks): Second booster, rabies, and leukemia.
  • One year later, the base vaccine is given along with rabies and leukemia.

After this the base vaccine is only given every 3 years. The rabies and the leukemia vaccines are done yearly with their annual check-up.

DEWORMING During the first exam your Veterinarian will prescribe a deworming treatment that will cover the majority of intestinal parasites. You will have to repeat the treatment in two weeks. After the first two treatments, it is strongly recommended that you deworm your animal 1 to 4 times a year, depending on you’re your pet’s lifestyle and the recommendation of your veterinarian.

STERILISATION Sterilization can be done starting from the age of 5 months. We are now fortunate to be able to offer the latest in technology, laser surgery. Because the laser causes less cell damage, animals feel less pain during recovery, little swelling, and little to no bleeding. This will help your animal to recover more quickly from surgery. (Supplement of $45.00) Included in all sterilisations of female cats, and cats that are to be de-clawed, because the surgery is longer, is intravenous fluids. This helps to eliminate the anaesthetics used during the operation from their system more rapidly. They will also receive an analgesic during, and for at least four days following the surgery. We also offer a pre-anaesthetic blood test, done the morning of the surgery. This helps us to verify that the internal organs (liver, kidneys…) are healthy and able to withstand the anaesthetic. * Your animal needs to up to date with it’s vaccines before being hospitalised.

FLEA PREVENTION There are many treatments available to help prevent the infestation of fleas. Discuss with your veterinarian which is best for you and your animal. The time to start treatment is usually between June and carries on until November or the first frost.

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Declaw alternatives

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Declawing in the cat is a surgery that involves amputation of the first phalanx of its fingers. The goal here is not to make you react by comparing these shocking images of such amputation. The goal is first and foremost to explain that there are other options than this surgery.

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Reasons to make their claws:

  • To file them
  • Stretch their column
  • Make marking

There are two methods to prevent cats from clawing on our property.
Within 5 days:

  • Having a good scratching post (1)
  • Put it in a good place
  • It must be attractive (eg cat grass)

In 10 days: (if your pet has already spoiled a place)

  • Make the place unpleasant, eg: Put aluminum foil
  • Place the alternative (the scratching post) in the same place
  • The scratching post must be more attractive than the old place
  • It is always possible to try these methods with Soft Paws to give time to see if the scratching post works well without damaging anything.

A good scratching post Height:

The post should be high enough so that your cat can lie down full length to stretch its spine.

Material: The pole must be covered with material that has a texture that your cat likes, such as carpet, rope, cardboard and wood. Make him discover the joys of planting his claws by playing with a toy on the scribbler or by putting a little cat grass there.

Location: a visible place, like the entrance to a room to show that it is its territory (for example on the side of a couch at the entrance of the living room).

Stability: The pole must be as stable as a tree. N.B: Cats are more attracted to vertical lines that mimic the lines of trees, which is why they are often attracted to wooden door frames.

NB: If a cat has already damaged a wooden structure or a cloth with its claws, the simple view of the vertical striations made by its claws will cause it to start again. It is therefore necessary to eliminate any apparent damage.

The soft paws
A very interesting alternative to declawing is the installation of claw covers such as Soft Paws. These claw covers are easily applicable and cover the sharp point of the claw. They protect all your belongings without any problem and avoid big surgery.

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Did you know that … The risk of a cat hurting your child is much less than the risk of injury with a bicycle. Declawing is illegal in more than 39 countries around the world, as in Australia, Brazil and most European countries. In some countries, repeat offenders are even exposed to prison sentences. Several Californian cities have also prohibited it since 2009. The consequences of surgery can be significant. There may also be potential complications (hemorrhage, infection, etc.).

Enriching your dog’s environment

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To come…

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How to be prepare for your appointment

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For your first puppy or kitten appointment
Fill in the form by clicking here

For a health problem
Fill in the form by clicking here

Blood control

  • Blood control for a diabetic animal: Ideally, we recommend that you take your appointment 4 to 6 hours after you have given your insulin.
  • Blood control for Phenobarbital: Ideally, we recommend that you take your appointment 2 hour before you give the medication or 2 hours after.
  • Blood control for the T4 (thyroid gland): Ideally, we recommend that you take your appointment 4 to 6 hours after you have given the medication.
  • Blood control for the ACTH: Ideally, we recommend that you take your appointment 2 to 4 hours after you have given themedication.

For a geriatric work-up
Fill in the form by clicking here

For a cat with behaviour problems
Fill in the form by clicking here

Sterilisation

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Sterilisation *To be hospitalized, your pet must have received its vaccines at least 10 days before the intervention. You need to remove your pet’s food between 19-20h the night before. You can leave its water available. You need to bring your animal between 8:30-9h.

The technician will receive you to get some information like the weight, the temperature and to confirm the procedure that is desired. She will verify if there is an umbilical hernia, dewclaws on the back paws or residual baby teeth that need to be taken care of during the intervention. She will explain and ask about pre-anaesthetic blood tests and lasers surgery. Before leaving, make sure to take your appointment for the post-surgical recommendations with the technician. Thereafter, your pet will be taken to the preoperative room. The technician will take blood if needed and do the test on site. The veterinarian will do a check-up to make sure your animal is healthy and will prescribe the appropriate anaesthetic protocol.

Since the surgical intervention on female dogs and cats is longer, inter-venous fluids will be installed to maintain adequate blood pressure during surgery. A sedation and pain relief drugs will be given 30 to 45 min. before the intervention. Then it will be given drugs to put it under, which will enable us to install an endotracheal tube in order to maintain it with a general anaesthetic gas during surgery.

As soon as the surgery is finished, we stop the gas and your pet will wake up slowly. Some animals will be able to leave the same evening under the veterinarian consent. When picking up your pet, you will encounter the technician which will give you post-operative recommendations.

Surgery of a cruciate ligament

For the surgery of a cruciate ligament

  • Start the anti-inflammatories prescribed by your veterinarian
  • Start glucosamine
  • If your pet is overweight, cut down on his food rations and start a food designed for joint problems
  • Also adapt your environment for a safe return of your pet to the house. Use non-slip mats where there are slippery floors.
  • Avoid stairs. Get him to sleep on the ground floor. Provide a ramp or child fence. Provide a cage if needed.
How to collect an urine sample

How to collect an urine sample from your dog
What you need: A clean container without any residue or a plastic ladle bought at the dollar store. Pour some boiling water in order to kill as much bacteria before collecting the urine. Sterile container that your veterinarian has provided.

Collection method : The urine sample needs to be fresh. There should be no more than 6hrs between collection and analysis. Try to collect the sample when your animal has a full bladder for example: Right after waking up. Thus, it will have a big urge to urinate and will not pay attention to what you are doing. It is often easier when you are two peaple. One person holds the leash and the other fellow behind. When your animal stars to urinate, discretly put the container under it to collect the urine. Transfer the urine in the sterile container. We just need around 10 ml. If you can’t brind the sample within the hour please put it in the refrigirator.

How to collect an urine sample from your cat
The veterinarian has left you a collection kit. You need to empty  your cat’s the litter box. It needs to be well cleaned and desinfected. It cannot have any remaining litter dust. Empty the beads in the clean litter box. As soon as your cat urinates, collect the urine with the pipette and transfer it in the sterile container. Bring us the sample as soon as possible. The urine sample needs to be fresh. There should be no more than 6hrs between collection and analysis. If you can’t brind the sample within the hour please put it in the refrigirator